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Clare Island
Clare Island is strategically located in the entrance of Clew Bay and only 15 minutes sailing time off the coast of County Mayo. Although the construction of a new jetty and plans to renovate Granuaile Castle to accommodate a visitors centre reveals the aspirations of the island it is still a bit off the beaten tourist tracks. The few facilities are basic but, because of the creativity of the approximately 150 islanders, sufficient.
Ferry services to Clare Island depart from Roonah Quay six kilometres west of Louisburgh, and are maintained by Clare Island Ferries and O'Malley Ferry Service. Basically there is no difference between the two companies, weather depending both bring you to the island and back for about 15 Euro, but additional services and costs for groups and cruises around the island may vary.
Clare Island measures about eight by five kilometres and is therewith perfectly suited for walking. You can stick to the paved roads if you are not particularly interested in ancients remains, but if you want to check out the fortifications and ancient cooking places you might consider waterproof footgear. Once debarked you are at the lowest point of the island and whether you are heading to the north or the west you have to go uphill, but at the end you will be rewarded by spectacular cliffs and with the knowledge that the way back is downhill.
The island is too small to really get lost and most sites are signposted, but nevertheless it is worthwhile to obtain a map because unpaved pathways have the tendency to get overgrown. The two dominating hills, Knockaveen in the east and Knockmore in the west, are excellent reference points for the ordinary hiker and challenges for the more experienced hill walker.
An other way to explore the island is to rent a bicycle. Keep in mind though that head wind for cyclists can be more exhausting than walking uphill.
It might be a good idea to avoid Clare Island if you have an aversion to open spaces or if you hate to get wet. There are virtually no trees or shelters, apart from a craft shop and restaurant, and the countless sheep are doing a great job in trimming the vegetation.
Granuaile Castle
Granuaile Castle
(authors collection)
Clare Island is inextricably bound up with Gráinne Uaile, or Grace O'Malley, the Pirate Queen. Her stronghold, Grace O'Malley Castle, or Granuaile Castle, is still dominating the harbour.
Grace was born around 1530 as the only child of Dudara and Margaret O'Malley. For centuries the O'Malley's ruled over the Clew Bay area and had applied themselves to merchant shipping. The small fleet of the family had established a solid reputation by committing trade with Scotland and Spain.
Already as a young girl Grace O'Malley was eager to step in her father's footsteps. It is said that especially her mother could not bear the idea of her daughter going to sea. However she kept whining until she figured out that cutting her hair was the decisive argument. Not only did this persuade her mother, but it also yield her the nickname Grainne Mhaol, or Grace the Bald, later shortened to Granuaile. Since then she accompanied her father on his trading missions. Legend has that on one of these missions their ship was boarded by a bunch of English pirates and that the young Grace jumped on the back of a pirate who threatened her father Dudara Black Oak O'Malley.
In 1546, at the age of 15 or 16, Grace O'Malley married Donal O'Flaherty. The couple shared their passion for the sea and a strong craving for adventure, but nevertheless the marriage was merely a political engagement between two the powerful families in west Connaught, nowadays Connacht. During the marriage Grace gave birth to three children (Owen, Margaret, and Murrough), but even motherhood proofed unable to keep her from her beloved sea.
Donal O'Flaherty, nicknamed Donal an Chogaidhher, or Donal of the Battles, is often portrait as a hot-heated person with more muscles than brains. Grace on the other hand combined her fearless fighting spirit and courage with wit, loyalty and insight. This combination of traits was very useful in the mid-1500's when Ireland was an unsettled and disunited country.
Throughout the centuries Irish clans and Old English Lords were used to settle their disputes between themselves, or if necessary supported by an ally, by war or cattle robberies. Although the balance of power shifted constantly the Brehon Law, and especially the elected chieftains, provided a relative stabile, yet fragile, society. That is, until King Henry VIII tried to submit the Irish chieftains to the English laws by executing his so-called Surrender and Regrant Policy. Briefly this policy implied that Irish clan leaders who surrendered to the King of England were given English titles and were allowed to hold their lands. The system of English titles, which are inherited by the oldest son, contravened the Brehon Law, by which clan leaders were elected. Apart from this not every clan leader was eager to take an oath of alliance to the Crown or to become a tributary. The resistance against the Surrender and Regrant Policy led to the Desmond Rebellions and the Nine Years War in the second half of the sixteenth century.
The O'Malley's and O'Flaherty's refused to resign themselves to the Crown. As an immediate consequence they were declared undesirable in Galway Bay. Without access to the port of Galway, then one of the most important ports of the British Isles, the merchant families were forced to find a new way to make their living. Grace and Donal had different opinions about their future and while Donal shrug his shoulders and continued trading by using other ports, Granuaile started to intercept ships heading for Galway and gave them the choice: buy a safe passage or get robbed.
Partially because Donal was rarely in Connaught, but merely by her qualities, Grace was in fact the chieftain of the O'Flaherty's until her husband died after 19 years of marriage. It was common practise that the wife inherited one-third of her husbands possessions, but Grace O'Malley was left empty-handed. The circumstances surrounding Donal's death are not known. Some assume that he was murdered by a relative, which might explain the drastic change in the relation between Grace and the O'Flaherty's.
With a few hundred followers Grace returned to O'Malley's territory and settled on Clare Island. Using Granuaile Castle as base, controlled most of Clew Bay and large parts of the west coast. She maintained a series of fortifications and a system by which messages could be transferred. There was however a troubling interruption near nowadays Newport. Carraig an Cabhlaigh, or Rockfleed Castle, the castle of Richard Iron Dick (do not ask) Burke, was not owned by the O'Malley's yet.
Grace O'Malley figured out a very Cleopatrarian solution: she married Burke in 1566. With her recent experiences in mind she made the condition that either party could dissolve marriage after a year. Exactly one year after the celebration Grace confined herself in the castle and simply dismissed Richard.
Grace's second marriage produced one son, whose birth is subject of a truly unbelievable story. It is said that Grace, by then about 37 years old, gave birth to this child on a ship during one of her missions, hence his name Tibbot Na Long, or Theobald of the Ships. This part is not really surprising considering the time she spent at sea, but the legend continues. Moments after delivery the ship was attacked by Turkish pirates. With Grace under hatches the attackers gained the upper hand until she gathered her strength and joined the fight while shouting Who cannot do without me for one day!. After her interference the tide turned and the Turkish ship was captured.
Oddly tradition has that the marriage of Grace O'Malley and Richard Burke was not an engagement of convenience. After Richard had been axed the couple maintained an intimate relation and when Richard died in 1583 Grace considered herself heiress of his livestock and estate in Borosowle, nowadays Burrishoole.
In the years following Richard's death Grace, by then a woman in her mid-50's, seriously tried to behave conventionally. She settle down in Borosowle and lived by the yields of fields and cattle, but found her intentions thwarted by the newly appointed Governor of Connaught, Sir Richard Bingham. Bingham had set his mind on the estates and possessions of the remaining Connaught chieftains. The regrant part of the Surrender and Regrant Policy was long forgotten by then and the seized estates were handed out to English noblemen.
Grace O'Malley was captured in 1586 and was bound to die on the gallows. She bought off her dire fate, probably by betraying her brother-in-law, but after her release she found her son oldest Owen murdered by Sir Richard Bingham and her estates confiscated. Robbed from her fields and cattle she revert to the seas and piracy.
Bingham still was not satisfied and continuously chased Granuaile. Grace had had enough after he had made a dead set at her son Murrough. In 1593 Grace decided to write Queen Elizabeth I and asked for liberty. Elizabeth replied by sending a list with 18 questions, the so-called Articles of Interrogatory. While Queen Elizabeth I was studying the answers Bingham arrested Grace's sons Murrough and Tibbott, and Donell O'Piper, her brother. Taken hostages was common practise to discourage opponents from acting silly.
Without hesitation Grace O'Malley travelled to London and was received in audience by the Queen. In contrast with the Articles of Interrogatory and Grace's answers, which are both kept in the English State Papers, there are no known records of this conversation, but apparently Grace had succeeded. Elizabeth ordered Bingham to release her relatives and in turn Grace put out to sea again, under the guise of fighting for the Queen.
Sir Richard Bingham had little faith in Grace's intentions. He made sure that she was closely monitored during her voyages until Grace could not stand her pursuers anymore. She moved in with the Earl of Ormond for a while before returning to Rockfleed Castle.
The latter days of the life of Grace O'Malley are vague. Some assume that she took up pirating again and eventually died in battle, while other thinks that Grace died of old age in Rockfleed Castle around 1603. Her final resting place is, in accordance with her chequered life, unknown, although legend has that she is buried in a tomb with the O'Malley family crest in the Cistercian Abbey on Clare Island.
Do not get confused by the popular name of Kildamhnait Castle on Achill Island. There is little evidence that she actually had spent some time on Achill Island, but nevertheless that castle is locally also known as Grace O'Malley's Castle.
Cistercian Abbey
It is said that the original Cistercian Abbey was built in the twelfth or thirteenth century and at last partially rebuilt in 1460. Apart from the possible burying place of the Pirate Queen Grace O'Malley the abbey contains some mediaeval murals. These painting, depicting animals and warriors as well as mythical figures, belong to the finest examples on Ireland.
Lighthouse
Lighthouse
(authors collection)
The Lighthouse is situated on the northern cliff side of the island. Until recently the lighthouse accommodated a Bed & Breakfast, but unfortunately it was sold to someone with a preference for gates, chains and padlocks. Nevertheless you can still enjoy the views on Achill Island.
Signal Tower
By itself the Signal Tower on Clare Island is not worth mentioning, because the coast of Ireland is crammed with such nineteenth century structures. During the Napoleonic Wars this chain of signal towers acted as intrusion alarm and communication system. When a ship was spotted by one tower a fire signal was transferred to adjacent towers which in turn raised the alarm et cetera, until someone felt the urge to engage the potential hostile vessel.
In order to save money these signal towers are as a rule located on high ground with a clear line of sight over the sea and to the neighbouring towers. Hence: the presence of a signal tower guarantees spectacular views. The signal tower on the west coast of Clare Island is no exception.
When compared with the views from the lighthouse on Clare Island the view from the signal tower has one disadvantage. You will see a large amount of ocean, which can be boring. On the other hand there are a lot of names you can give an ocean during sunset, but none of them would be boring.